Spain: Montserrat and Valencia
Hi All,
It has been awhile since I last wrote. I had to rush off to Michigan for a family emergency. I am very happy to be home. I missed my wife, Laila, Pico, and the sun.
Back to Spain. After we left Barcelona we headed to the Monastery at Montserrat. Even though we enjoyed Barcelona, it was very nice to get back to small towns and out of the hustle of Barcelona. I guess we are not city folks.
The mountain range sticks out of the flatlands like a behemoth.
One of the things I found fascinating was the whole range is made up of conglomerate rock. Conglomerate rock are smaller stones cemented together. It can look like a dry stream bed on its side. As you can see in this next picture there is everything from hand and fist size rocks. You can also tell from this picture there is climbing.
The Monastery itself was tucked back in the mountain about 10km up a narrow, winding road. We had a small car and were almost run off the road a couple of times by giant tour buses. There is no way these buses should have been allowed on this road. The buses could not drive the road without being over the center line continually. It was a little scary sometimes.
The monastery was founded in the 11th century and the main church was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. This is also when the pilgrims start to come. We where amazed and awed with the buildings. It would take years with modern equipment to accomplish what they did by hand. I am sure it had the desired effect on the local populace and pilgrims.
Many of these buildings were destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. In 1812 Napoleon's army destroyed it. Then in 1936-9 the Spanish Civil War almost destroyed it again.
I had to put this picture in. Janice was continually making fun of me for having my nose in a map. I can not help it, I love maps.
The stone carvings were amazing.
Even now looking at these pictures I have a tremendous amount of respect for the people who designed and built these beautiful structures by hand.
Probably my favorite pictures of the buildings and mountains.
Later in the day we decided to hike to the highest point of Montserrat, Sant Jeroni.
The trail was about 8km round trip and went passed amazing views and old ruins. The picture below is of one of the first chapels believed to be built on the mountain in the ninth century. They were built by hermit monks who lived a solitary life of prayer.
There is rock everywhere and most of these cliffs you see have climbing routes on them.
Sant Jeroni sits at about 1200m of elevation. You can see the views are amazing.
After our hike we made our way to small, beautiful village called Collbato. We absolutely loved this place. It was not the tourist trap you would expect to find so near to Montserrat but a quiet, laid back little village living its own life.
After some time trying to find our way around the oneway, narrow streets we finally found our apartment for the next two nights.
Elies, our host in Collbato was an amazingly laid back and patient man, who spoke almost no English and as we found out this was case with most of the people in Collbato. We got a true taste of what it was like to be a stranger in a strange land. With patients and understanding on both sides we were all able to be understood and to understand most of what was being said.
The picture below is the bell tower in the village. This bell rang on the hour the number of times for that hour. Then rang again once at quarter past. Then rang two times again at half past. Then rang three times at quarter to the hour. It did this 24 hours a day. It took a little getting used to in the middle of the night since we where living two blocks from it.
This is the view from our apartment window. It was hard to leave sometimes.
We did get a day of climbing in a place called Totxos de La Vinya Nova not far outside of Collbato. We had to drive a few miles back on a decent dirt road to this very nice restaurant named Vinya Nova. Parking right by the restaurant we hiked up canyon about 5 minutes to the first crag.
There were a number of great sport climbs on beautiful conglomerate rock.
Janice getting ready to repel off a scary 5.11a route.
There were climbs all over the canyon and even though we climbed six climbs we only scratched the surface.
We did get on 2 5.9s, 3 5.10s, and 1 5.11.
The guide book we bought was all in Spanish so it was a challenge at first to find where we were going. But with the help of some Spanish climbers, with their broken English and our broken Spanish (ours was more broken then theirs) we found some great climbs. I am very glad we found guidebooks in English to the other areas in Spain we climbed.
Our next stop was in Valencia and a visit with Alan Popa and his family.
We got into Valencia late in the afternoon. After Barcelona we were not thrilled to be in another big city. Driving in these big cities can be insane. I will not say it is the drivers but the endless one way streets that never lead directly to where you want to go. Then there are the giant round-abouts, sometimes 6 or 7 lanes. They were a little tough to get used to and they are everywhere.
We got a hold of Alan and headed to his place. At his place we met Roo his son, Audrey his daughter, and Luisa his grilfriend.
They took us to a wonderful, hole-in-the-wall, traditional Tapas Bar called La Tirenda. (The Tent) Another thing traditional about this place was the eating time. They do not open until 7:30pm. We got there at 8:00 and waited in line until 8:30. We did not get done eating until well after 9:00. Wayyyyy pass our bed time. During our whole trip, eating so late was one of the hardest things for us to get used to.
The next morning we all hooked up again. Luisa had invited us to her families traditional Sunday dinner. This is still one of the most memorable things we did in Spain. We felt so fortunate and it was a special day for us.
Luisa's parents place was about a half hour outside of Valencia.
When we first got there we were treated to homemade Spanish Tortilla. Shortly after Luisa's mother started the homemade Paella. This is an all afternoon process.
I got to put my chopping skills to work.
Start with the chicken and then add the peas and let them cook through.
Then you add water and let it warm up.
Then the short grain rice.
Then let it simmer for awhile.
Ready to eat.
While we were watching the meal being prepared we played a little soccer.
Alan and his kids on defense.
Alan with Roo.
Audrey in the goal.
We figured it had been about 20 years since we had seen each other. I hope it is not another 20.
Luisa's whole family made us feel right at home. It was a packed house, with brothers and sister, nieces and nephews. Most who spoke no English. It was a very special day.
Peace and Love
It has been awhile since I last wrote. I had to rush off to Michigan for a family emergency. I am very happy to be home. I missed my wife, Laila, Pico, and the sun.
Back to Spain. After we left Barcelona we headed to the Monastery at Montserrat. Even though we enjoyed Barcelona, it was very nice to get back to small towns and out of the hustle of Barcelona. I guess we are not city folks.
The mountain range sticks out of the flatlands like a behemoth.
One of the things I found fascinating was the whole range is made up of conglomerate rock. Conglomerate rock are smaller stones cemented together. It can look like a dry stream bed on its side. As you can see in this next picture there is everything from hand and fist size rocks. You can also tell from this picture there is climbing.
The Monastery itself was tucked back in the mountain about 10km up a narrow, winding road. We had a small car and were almost run off the road a couple of times by giant tour buses. There is no way these buses should have been allowed on this road. The buses could not drive the road without being over the center line continually. It was a little scary sometimes.
The monastery was founded in the 11th century and the main church was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. This is also when the pilgrims start to come. We where amazed and awed with the buildings. It would take years with modern equipment to accomplish what they did by hand. I am sure it had the desired effect on the local populace and pilgrims.
Many of these buildings were destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. In 1812 Napoleon's army destroyed it. Then in 1936-9 the Spanish Civil War almost destroyed it again.
I had to put this picture in. Janice was continually making fun of me for having my nose in a map. I can not help it, I love maps.
The stone carvings were amazing.
Even now looking at these pictures I have a tremendous amount of respect for the people who designed and built these beautiful structures by hand.
Probably my favorite pictures of the buildings and mountains.
Later in the day we decided to hike to the highest point of Montserrat, Sant Jeroni.
The trail was about 8km round trip and went passed amazing views and old ruins. The picture below is of one of the first chapels believed to be built on the mountain in the ninth century. They were built by hermit monks who lived a solitary life of prayer.
There is rock everywhere and most of these cliffs you see have climbing routes on them.
Sant Jeroni sits at about 1200m of elevation. You can see the views are amazing.
After our hike we made our way to small, beautiful village called Collbato. We absolutely loved this place. It was not the tourist trap you would expect to find so near to Montserrat but a quiet, laid back little village living its own life.
After some time trying to find our way around the oneway, narrow streets we finally found our apartment for the next two nights.
Elies, our host in Collbato was an amazingly laid back and patient man, who spoke almost no English and as we found out this was case with most of the people in Collbato. We got a true taste of what it was like to be a stranger in a strange land. With patients and understanding on both sides we were all able to be understood and to understand most of what was being said.
The picture below is the bell tower in the village. This bell rang on the hour the number of times for that hour. Then rang again once at quarter past. Then rang two times again at half past. Then rang three times at quarter to the hour. It did this 24 hours a day. It took a little getting used to in the middle of the night since we where living two blocks from it.
This is the view from our apartment window. It was hard to leave sometimes.
We did get a day of climbing in a place called Totxos de La Vinya Nova not far outside of Collbato. We had to drive a few miles back on a decent dirt road to this very nice restaurant named Vinya Nova. Parking right by the restaurant we hiked up canyon about 5 minutes to the first crag.
There were a number of great sport climbs on beautiful conglomerate rock.
Janice getting ready to repel off a scary 5.11a route.
There were climbs all over the canyon and even though we climbed six climbs we only scratched the surface.
We did get on 2 5.9s, 3 5.10s, and 1 5.11.
The guide book we bought was all in Spanish so it was a challenge at first to find where we were going. But with the help of some Spanish climbers, with their broken English and our broken Spanish (ours was more broken then theirs) we found some great climbs. I am very glad we found guidebooks in English to the other areas in Spain we climbed.
Our next stop was in Valencia and a visit with Alan Popa and his family.
We got into Valencia late in the afternoon. After Barcelona we were not thrilled to be in another big city. Driving in these big cities can be insane. I will not say it is the drivers but the endless one way streets that never lead directly to where you want to go. Then there are the giant round-abouts, sometimes 6 or 7 lanes. They were a little tough to get used to and they are everywhere.
We got a hold of Alan and headed to his place. At his place we met Roo his son, Audrey his daughter, and Luisa his grilfriend.
They took us to a wonderful, hole-in-the-wall, traditional Tapas Bar called La Tirenda. (The Tent) Another thing traditional about this place was the eating time. They do not open until 7:30pm. We got there at 8:00 and waited in line until 8:30. We did not get done eating until well after 9:00. Wayyyyy pass our bed time. During our whole trip, eating so late was one of the hardest things for us to get used to.
The next morning we all hooked up again. Luisa had invited us to her families traditional Sunday dinner. This is still one of the most memorable things we did in Spain. We felt so fortunate and it was a special day for us.
Luisa's parents place was about a half hour outside of Valencia.
When we first got there we were treated to homemade Spanish Tortilla. Shortly after Luisa's mother started the homemade Paella. This is an all afternoon process.
I got to put my chopping skills to work.
Start with the chicken and then add the peas and let them cook through.
Then you add water and let it warm up.
Then the short grain rice.
Then let it simmer for awhile.
Ready to eat.
While we were watching the meal being prepared we played a little soccer.
Alan and his kids on defense.
Alan with Roo.
Audrey in the goal.
We figured it had been about 20 years since we had seen each other. I hope it is not another 20.
Luisa's whole family made us feel right at home. It was a packed house, with brothers and sister, nieces and nephews. Most who spoke no English. It was a very special day.
Peace and Love
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